Sep 8 2010

Valdez Wrap-Up: Yes, Mother Nature Seems to Play Favorites Here

Erin Kirkland
This little cub is following bear tracks to one of the many kid-friendly museums in Valdez. We loved the walkability of this little town

This little cub is following bear tracks to one of the many kid-friendly museums in Valdez. We loved the walkability of this little town

Dirty laundry aside, today is a great day, mostly because I am cruising through my photos of our weekend trip to Valdez, over and over and over. It’s like a calendar; every picture is good, and not because I know what I’m doing. It’s because Valdez and all points between are utterly breathtaking.

Thanks again to Colleen Stephens of Stan Stephens Glacier and Wildlife Cruises, and Dave Petersen, Exec. Director of the Valdez CVB; for without their wisdom and practical natures, AK Fam would have been one overextended and exhausted group. Goes to show that the family who plans well (or has someone plan for them), plays well. I must say to any who are debating a trip to the Prince William Sound area; do your homework. The Visitors Bureau folks can put together an itinerary to fit any family’s budget and lifestyle, no matter the ages or stages. Dave is a dad, I’ve mentioned before, and he knows how to keep kids occupied and happy for just the right amount of time. He also has a great lineup of staff and volunteers in the office, most of whom haved lived in Valdez their entire lives, and who can give a living history of the area at the drop of a hat. We like authenticity.

In fact, we found this to be true of most attractions and businesses around the town. Everybody is cheerfully able to provide visitors with as much or as little info as they need, and sometimes walk you right to your destination. How’s that for service? Here’s a few of our favorite trips and activities for families in the Valdez area, beginning with the trip over/down/up (will somebody please tell me how to say that? Is Valdez up or down from Anchorage?)

Alaska Marine Highway System and fast ferry, Chenega: Three hours as opposed to six? Yeah. Kids under 6 are free, kids 6-12 are half price. Do it. The boat is fast and smooth, and the service is tops. Take the car so you can drive home. That’s the expensive part, at a bit over $100. Worth it though, to see a humpback whale or icebergs or sea lions, and that mountain terrain.

Eagles Rest RV/Cabins: Little cabins with either bunks and a double bed, or one single/one double, plus hot shower, little television, and microwave, fridge, coffeemaker, and sink. worked fine for us, as we did easy breakfasts and had happy hour every evening on our little deck. Quiet except for the traffic coming into town, but even that wasn’t too bad. AK Kid met other kids, and had ample room to play around the cabin. A 24-hr store offers basics, and there is laundry on-site. Wireless was a problem, but they promised to fix it. Bonus: we walked simply everywhere, as Eagles Rest is close to downtown. Loved it.

Pangea Adventures: Double kayaks for almost every age or ability. Great intro to kayaking with knowledgable staff and kind instruction. Best bet? Paddle out to Duck Flats and see birds, otters, fish, and maybe a bear or two during the two/three-hour trip for $59. AK Dad found his guide, Cole, to be a superstar. Pangea also does ice-climbing trips for older kids and adults, whoohoo, gotta try that on for size this winter. Check out Tim Duffy’s stellar biz and tell him AK Fam sent you. Maybe he’ll do his Alaska Rap Song as a bonus.

Sound Excursions Charters: We’ve written about Wes Lundburg and his water taxi/fishing charter/wildlife outfit, but we’ll also add that Wes will drop you and your family off at a remote cabin or to go camping if you ask him. We’re seriously considering that next summer. AK Kid would like to drive the boat next time. We might have to debate that extra charge.

Valdez Museum: Don’t miss our upcoming blog post about this trifecta of Alaskan historical displays and experiences for KTUU’s GoToAK.com this Friday. Take my word for it, you should go to all three for a complete understanding of the tenacity of the human spirit, plus a little geology lesson. AK Kid loved the models and the old fire trucks.

Stan Stephens Glacier and Wildlife Cruises: When Captain Stan takes the helm, you can be sure of one thing; you’ll see both. Glaciers and wildlife, that is. Humpback whales, sea lions sunning themselves on rocks, puffins, and ice, blocks the size of office buildings. 6.5 hour cruise was a good choice for AK Kid who enjoyed his lunch, explored the ship, and watched whales blow practically in his face. $115 adults/$57 kids. If you want a complete Alaskan experience, this is your best bet. Lunch included, plus free coffee/tea/lemonade all day.

Thompson Pass: On the drive out of Valdez to complete our loop of fun, we took famed Thompson Pass and Richardson Highway, awash in golds and reds and browns for autumn’s arrival. I had to drive with my camera in my lap, there were so many photo ops, but really, my camera couldn’t do justice to the scene before us. Whoa, is all I can say. Stop at Blueberry Lake on top of the Pass and have a picnic, or stop in Copper River Basin for a look into roadhouses that dot the way. Take your time; this drive is a must-do.

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park Visitor Center: Just outside the town of Glenallen, the NPS has built a wonderful example of a visitor center, complete with totally accessible nature trails and exceptional displays for kids. On clear days the mountain ranges are visible and impressive peaks take over the landscape. Stick around for the movie explaining the geology of the Park and some interesting stats (bigger than Switzerland and with higher peaks).

Sheep Mountain Lodge: One of our fav rest stops, to say nothing of the lodging, Sheep Mountain is a lovely alpine destination year-round. Owned by Zack and Anjanette Steer, an Iditarod mushing family, the lodge offers summertime dining at their little restaurant (try the triple berry crisp), and cabins for rent all year. Zack Steer grooms a trail system for some great family-friendly xc skiing, and snowshowing can’t be beat.

Allow at least five days for experiencing all of the above with some downtime in between, and to make the drive a leisurely one. Trust us, this is a once in a lifetime vacation. And we want to go back.

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Aug 6 2010

Thursday Night Arrival in Fairbanks: AK Fam is on the Go

Erin Kirkland

AK Kid surveys the Nanana Valley forest fire situation

AK Kid surveys the Nenana Valley forest fire situation

AK Fam is settled into our temporary home-away-from-home after a beautiful drive from McKinley Princess Lodge to Fairbanks. Even though the bipolar weather kept us guessing (sunglasses on?-sunglasses off?) we enjoyed our trek through Denali National Park, where we met up with our friends the Harrisons who are just millimeters away (on the map) from their goal of Fairbanks on their Big Yellow Bike. Delivering some provisions and roasting some marshmallows gave us all some needed break time, and it was fun to see their digs at the Riley Creek Campground.

Arriving in Fairbanks around 5 p.m., we quickly found our way to the lovely grounds of Bear Lodge, part of the Wedgewood Resort complex built in the 1970’s to accommodate workers on the Alaska Pipeline project and now one of a few locally-owned (Fountainhead Development Corp.) properties for tourists like us. A thunderstorm of monumental proportions had followed us from Nenana, and streaks of lightening made tracks across the sky and shook up AK Kid, who had never seen lightening before (he was a baby during our residence in South Carolina, where t-storms are as natural as bugs). Temperatures, however, have been warm and muggy, and our 2nd floor room provided a respite from rain and heat; unbelievable. Bear Lodge provides a number of nature-themed activities for guests, something we appreciate as parents striving to introduce our son to the wild world around him. We only scratched the surface with a short walk around nearby Creamer’s Field, a well-known refuge for migrating birds and simply gorgeous in the late-evening light. For sure we’ll return to visit in depth. Wedgewood Resorts is home to the Wedgewood Wildlife Sanctuary, a 75-acre private preserve that is perfect for bird watching, hiking, and learning about the critters calling Fairbanks home. Open year-round, the trails are accessible and just waiting for exploration. I can hardly wait.

We dined tonight at the Ichiban Noodle (907-455-9116) just down College Road from the resort. Huge bowls of noodle soups, specialty fried noodles, and some darn good crab puffs filled up the three of us and then some, with plum iced tea to top it off. Tiny and popular, the Ichiban is a delightful place for kids. Our own was enraptured, enjoying slurp-y noodles and veggies while watching the flatscreen television above his head showing a volume-off Japanese soap opera. I’m not making this up.

A long day awaits us tomorrow; El Dorado Gold Mine and the opening of the Tanana Valley Fair will for sure keep us immersed in the golden glow of Fairbanks. Cotton candy and the Gravitron, anybody?

PS: We know it is Fun Friday, and as soon as we get off the train we’ll get you up and running for your weekend. Fishing day in Homer, Ranger talks in Anchor River, and a Bore Tide on Turnagain Arm; we’ll give you the skinny. Enjoy the day.

 

 

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