A Riverboat Named Discovery: Fairbanks Fun Continues

Discovery III chugs along the Chena River on a 3.5 hour tour of Alaskana
Fairbanksians know that winter is but a puff of frosty breath away, but continue merrily on with summer until the first flakes of snow begin to fall. Even as the last gasp of what we know as summer grinds nearer and nearer to its end, it’s been a good one in Fairbanks; sunny skies and toasty-warm weather just right for showing visitors a good time.
Last week we talked about our visit to the El Dorado Gold Mine, owned and operated by the Binkley family, long recognized as leaders among the travel and tourism biz in Alaska. Not just about railroads and gold mines, the Binkley family owns another Fairbanks institution, this one the one that started it all. Riverboat Discovery tours started back in 1950 with the late Captain Jim and his wife, Mary Binkley deciding to build a riverboat in their front yard to show off the placid but utterly crucial Chena River. Like the river on a busy day, the tour business took off and ever since the Binkley family, upwards of twenty or more now, have played host to the scores of visitors and Alaskans who cruise the Chena.
It was a puffy-cloud, blue-sky sort of day for our 2 p.m. departure from Steamboat Landing, the spot through which all tours depart. Accompanied by a fleet of tour buses, AK Fam dutifully handed over our tickets for embarkation aboard the Discovery II, a lovely paddlewheel craft boasting both indoor and outdoor seating, television monitors, and a guide who managed to keep the multi-generational, multi-cultural mass of us amused and educated. Explaining that our 3.5 hour tour would take us to various sites showcasing the diverse lifestyles of Alaskans, our guide brought us through the history of the riverboat in Interior Alaska. Providing transportation for both goods and good people, riverboats were the mode of travel for those moving in and out of Alaska’s territory until trains came upon the scene and took over much of the overland transport. Personally, I’d much rather travel via boat; the Tanana and Chena rivers are wide, slow (most of the time), and offer scenery one cannot get from a stinky, loud, and often broken train (this is the 1800/1900 genre, remember).
As soon as we sat down on the upper deck with our free doughnuts and coffee (a big benefit; Binkleys know how to keep their guests happy; free food was a huge hit with AK Kid), we were interrupted from our sun-worshipping gaze upon the river by the put-put-put of an aircraft engine, and sure enough, out ahead of us, churning river water like a washing machine was a float plane getting ready to put on a daily spectacle for our benefit. Taking off and landing and even chatting over a microphone connected to our guide’s, we heard the ins and outs of air travel within the state, and gee but the plane was cool as if flew right over our heads. What the heck, we clapped as loud as the couple from Oklahoma sitting next to us.
The ride continued to the confluence of the Tanana and Chena rivers, where silty water meets clear water, and a boiling result mesmerized our son and made him wonder why, indeed, the two seem to be as oil and water. Before we could answer the question, though, our Captain (a grandson of Jim Binkley himeslf) had turned us around and headed towards the pinnacle of Riverboat Discovery’s trip; to the Athabascan Village, where we could disembark, listen to cultural presentations, and check out sled dogs owned by the late Iditarod champion Susan Butcher and her husband, Dave Monson.
This is where I fought the anti-herd mentality with the understanding that there must be some semblance of order to manage 500 people on a small swath of land and keep them all educated and entertained. Walking with the crowd, following the “right-this-way” leader, I noticed right away AK Kid’s reticence and shooed he and AK Dad to their own meanderings, something I was grateful for as crowds increased and the interest level of kids present decreased.
Not all bad, though. We did learn much about Athabascan lifestyles and traditions (although memorized in the sing-song-y way of schoolchildren) given by our young presenters, and we did relish the tang of woodsmoke and feel of sunlight on our skin as we walked the woodland trails from station to station. How could we not enjoy an experience that did not fight our desire to simply be alone? I appreciated the fact that no one came running after us to demand we get back with the group. Breaking away from the pack was important.
We saw some fish filleting in preparation for smoking, felt a beaver pelt, listened to the yip and yowl of sled dogs, and felt as if somebody got it right in putting all these experiences in one neat package for us to treasure. The one moment of “uh-oh”? Caribou. I just couldn’t wrap my head around why such a successful, attentive-to-detail sort of business would cue caribou from their pen to the shoreline at just the right moment in our guide’s script for proper incorporation. Geez. But that was but a two-minute departure from reality, and we suffered it with good humor.
Our return trip was bathed in late-afternoon sunlight washing over the decks of tired tourists. Steamboat Landing sells smoked salmon (purportedly the best in Alaska; um, beg to differ there), and offered crackers and fish for the ride home, along with a nice variety of alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages for purchase. Heck, a float down a river on a sunny day, salmon spread in one hand, lemonade in the other? I can do that.
For 3.5 hours on the boat and on land, Adults are $54.95/Kids 3-12 $37.95. Under 3 is FREE. Is it worth it? Yes, if you know for a fact you will not be visiting any other Alaskan-themed attractions featuring dogs, Native Alaskans, or transportation. It is very worth the money if you are transitioning between cruise ship to land cruise, or are beginning or ending your trip in Fairbanks. The management is delightful, you’ll get a feel for Interior Alaska, and kids are treated not as bugs underfoot but little people with imaginations and questions.
A few weeks remain (mid-Sept. I’ve been told) to catch a ride on the Riverboat Discovery. Call 1-866-479-6673 for reservations, or visit the Riverboat Discovery web site.

