Sep 8 2010

Valdez Wrap-Up: Yes, Mother Nature Seems to Play Favorites Here

Erin Kirkland
This little cub is following bear tracks to one of the many kid-friendly museums in Valdez. We loved the walkability of this little town

This little cub is following bear tracks to one of the many kid-friendly museums in Valdez. We loved the walkability of this little town

Dirty laundry aside, today is a great day, mostly because I am cruising through my photos of our weekend trip to Valdez, over and over and over. It’s like a calendar; every picture is good, and not because I know what I’m doing. It’s because Valdez and all points between are utterly breathtaking.

Thanks again to Colleen Stephens of Stan Stephens Glacier and Wildlife Cruises, and Dave Petersen, Exec. Director of the Valdez CVB; for without their wisdom and practical natures, AK Fam would have been one overextended and exhausted group. Goes to show that the family who plans well (or has someone plan for them), plays well. I must say to any who are debating a trip to the Prince William Sound area; do your homework. The Visitors Bureau folks can put together an itinerary to fit any family’s budget and lifestyle, no matter the ages or stages. Dave is a dad, I’ve mentioned before, and he knows how to keep kids occupied and happy for just the right amount of time. He also has a great lineup of staff and volunteers in the office, most of whom haved lived in Valdez their entire lives, and who can give a living history of the area at the drop of a hat. We like authenticity.

In fact, we found this to be true of most attractions and businesses around the town. Everybody is cheerfully able to provide visitors with as much or as little info as they need, and sometimes walk you right to your destination. How’s that for service? Here’s a few of our favorite trips and activities for families in the Valdez area, beginning with the trip over/down/up (will somebody please tell me how to say that? Is Valdez up or down from Anchorage?)

Alaska Marine Highway System and fast ferry, Chenega: Three hours as opposed to six? Yeah. Kids under 6 are free, kids 6-12 are half price. Do it. The boat is fast and smooth, and the service is tops. Take the car so you can drive home. That’s the expensive part, at a bit over $100. Worth it though, to see a humpback whale or icebergs or sea lions, and that mountain terrain.

Eagles Rest RV/Cabins: Little cabins with either bunks and a double bed, or one single/one double, plus hot shower, little television, and microwave, fridge, coffeemaker, and sink. worked fine for us, as we did easy breakfasts and had happy hour every evening on our little deck. Quiet except for the traffic coming into town, but even that wasn’t too bad. AK Kid met other kids, and had ample room to play around the cabin. A 24-hr store offers basics, and there is laundry on-site. Wireless was a problem, but they promised to fix it. Bonus: we walked simply everywhere, as Eagles Rest is close to downtown. Loved it.

Pangea Adventures: Double kayaks for almost every age or ability. Great intro to kayaking with knowledgable staff and kind instruction. Best bet? Paddle out to Duck Flats and see birds, otters, fish, and maybe a bear or two during the two/three-hour trip for $59. AK Dad found his guide, Cole, to be a superstar. Pangea also does ice-climbing trips for older kids and adults, whoohoo, gotta try that on for size this winter. Check out Tim Duffy’s stellar biz and tell him AK Fam sent you. Maybe he’ll do his Alaska Rap Song as a bonus.

Sound Excursions Charters: We’ve written about Wes Lundburg and his water taxi/fishing charter/wildlife outfit, but we’ll also add that Wes will drop you and your family off at a remote cabin or to go camping if you ask him. We’re seriously considering that next summer. AK Kid would like to drive the boat next time. We might have to debate that extra charge.

Valdez Museum: Don’t miss our upcoming blog post about this trifecta of Alaskan historical displays and experiences for KTUU’s GoToAK.com this Friday. Take my word for it, you should go to all three for a complete understanding of the tenacity of the human spirit, plus a little geology lesson. AK Kid loved the models and the old fire trucks.

Stan Stephens Glacier and Wildlife Cruises: When Captain Stan takes the helm, you can be sure of one thing; you’ll see both. Glaciers and wildlife, that is. Humpback whales, sea lions sunning themselves on rocks, puffins, and ice, blocks the size of office buildings. 6.5 hour cruise was a good choice for AK Kid who enjoyed his lunch, explored the ship, and watched whales blow practically in his face. $115 adults/$57 kids. If you want a complete Alaskan experience, this is your best bet. Lunch included, plus free coffee/tea/lemonade all day.

Thompson Pass: On the drive out of Valdez to complete our loop of fun, we took famed Thompson Pass and Richardson Highway, awash in golds and reds and browns for autumn’s arrival. I had to drive with my camera in my lap, there were so many photo ops, but really, my camera couldn’t do justice to the scene before us. Whoa, is all I can say. Stop at Blueberry Lake on top of the Pass and have a picnic, or stop in Copper River Basin for a look into roadhouses that dot the way. Take your time; this drive is a must-do.

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park Visitor Center: Just outside the town of Glenallen, the NPS has built a wonderful example of a visitor center, complete with totally accessible nature trails and exceptional displays for kids. On clear days the mountain ranges are visible and impressive peaks take over the landscape. Stick around for the movie explaining the geology of the Park and some interesting stats (bigger than Switzerland and with higher peaks).

Sheep Mountain Lodge: One of our fav rest stops, to say nothing of the lodging, Sheep Mountain is a lovely alpine destination year-round. Owned by Zack and Anjanette Steer, an Iditarod mushing family, the lodge offers summertime dining at their little restaurant (try the triple berry crisp), and cabins for rent all year. Zack Steer grooms a trail system for some great family-friendly xc skiing, and snowshowing can’t be beat.

Allow at least five days for experiencing all of the above with some downtime in between, and to make the drive a leisurely one. Trust us, this is a once in a lifetime vacation. And we want to go back.

Share/Save/Bookmark


Sep 6 2010

A ‘Must-Have’ List for Wildlife Cruises in Alaska

Erin Kirkland
Wildlife cruising with kids can be a great experience for everybody, provided you follow a few simple rules

Wildlife cruising with kids can be a great experience for everybody, provided you follow a few simple rules

AK Fam woke up this morning to glorious sunshine and cool autumn temperatures; just right for getting out on the water and enjoying one of the last wildlife cruises offered by Stan Stephens Cruises  in Valdez. Stuffing the daypack reminded me that perhaps others may be interested in knowing our secret fora  busy, happy AK Kid during the sometimes hit-or-miss wildlife cruise.

We’ve done a few of these cruises, which incidentially share many characteristics of road trips with a few notable exceptions. One, we can’t stop and let the restless child run around a grassy stretch of highway, throw rocks into a river, or sit in a snowbank. A second exception lies in the discipline department, something all parents everywhere know can be difficult in a crowded public place, much less a boat filled with paying customers who do not want their Alaskan experience sullied by a whining child who shrieks over and over that he wants to go back. There is no place to pull over and do a time-out along the roadside.  Ah yes, travel with children. Remind me again why we do this?

Anyway, below are a few tips and items for survival we always include in the wildlife excursion cruise backpack. And yes, you need a backpack, preferably one with many pockets to hold not only the kids’ stuff, but yours as well.

1. Warm clothes. Even though the sun may be shining brightly in the azure Alaskan sky, temperatures on the water are at least 10 degrees cooler, even cooler than that when you are close to a calving glacier. We always take fleece and a packable windbreaker for everybody. And a warm hat, too.

2. Food. Many outfits allow you to bring your own food. Ask ahead of time what this means; even the most stodgy will allow kid-pleasing munchies aboard in the interest of peaceful cruising. Some provide meals, like Stephens Cruises, but AK Kid won’t eat soup so we’re bringing apples, juice, and some trail mix. Sometimes we bring peanut butter and bagels. Don’t forget money for beverages  if you wish to quench your adult thirst, which we sometimes really, really need.

3. DVD Player or portable game. I’m all for making kids enjoy the experience, but frankly, most kids will do so for a few hours then cast aside the whale search in favor of something else; and if you don’t have that something else ready, katey bar the door, as my sweet grandma used to say. This is no time to be purist, bring the darn DVD player or DS, and don’t forget to make sure it’s charged up before you go. There is nothing more irritating than a kid attached to a wall outlet in the way of everybody else. We bring movies with a theme pertaining to the day; Free Willy today. Oh, bring those headphones, too.

4. Notebook, pens, crayons. I don’t bring pencils because they always break. I don’t bring felt tip pens because they always end up with caps off and lines drawn everywhere but the paper. Crayons are king. We play “the shape game”, where AK Dad or I draw a shape on the paper and AK Kid needs to make something from it. You’d be surprised at how fun this can be. Some kids enjoy playing “reporter”, journaling the experience for absent family members.

5. Binoculars, even for the kids. AK Kid loves to watch for animals, even if he has no idea how binos work. That’s okay, because he has his own pair and that looks cool.

Put all this stuff in a big daypack with the camera and get ready for a glorious day on the water. We’re going to be late, so off we go. Stay tuned for some wild-life, AK Fam-style photos tonight when we get back!

Share/Save/Bookmark